Why is my watch gaining a few seconds a day?
I hear a faint grinding sound… Is that a problem?
I want to clean my watch, but how do I start?
I’m sure these questions have crossed every mechanical watch owner’s mind. Mechanical watches are intricate machines—tiny parts work in harmony to keep time, and even small mistakes can affect accuracy or damage the movement.
In this guide, we will show you exactly how to maintain a mechanical watch, from daily care to cleaning and long-term servicing, so your timepiece stays precise and pristine for years.
Types of Mechanical Watches
Mechanical watches fall into two main categories: manual-wind and automatic (self-winding). Two of them rely on a tightly wound mainspring to power the movement, but they differ in how the energy is stored and maintained.
- Manual-Wind Watches: These watches need you to wind the crown regularly. Each turn tightens the mainspring, storing energy to run the watch. Missing a day of winding can stop the movement.
- Automatic (Self-Winding) Watches: These watches have a small rotor inside that spins as you move your wrist, winding the mainspring automatically. They keep running as long as you wear them regularly. If left unworn for several days, they may stop, and occasional manual winding keeps the movement lubricated and accurate.
How to Maintain a Mechanical Watch
1. Wind Your Watch Properly
Proper winding keeps your mechanical watch running smoothly and prevents damage to the delicate movement inside.
Manual-Wind Watches
- Turn the crown slowly and steadily in a clockwise direction. Avoid rapid or jerky movements that can strain the mainspring.
- Most manual-wind watches require 20–40 turns per day, depending on the model and the remaining power reserve. Overwinding can break or deform the mainspring, so stop immediately when you feel resistance.
- Wind your watch at the same time each day to maintain consistent power and prevent uneven lubrication of the gears.
Automatic Watches
- Automatic watches rely on a rotor that winds the mainspring as you move your wrist. Wearing your watch daily usually keeps it fully wound.
- If the watch hasn’t been worn for 1–2 days, perform a manual wind of 10–20 turns. This prevents the lubricants inside from settling or congealing, which can lead to uneven timekeeping or increased friction.
- Some automatic watches have power reserves ranging from 40–80 hours. Knowing your watch’s reserve helps you decide how often to wind it manually.
- Avoid excessive shaking or winding while the watch is off your wrist, as this can stress the rotor or gears.
Extra tips for both types: Always wind with a light touch. The sensation of resistance tells you when the mainspring is fully wound. You should also never force the crown if it feels stuck—this could indicate a mechanical issue that requires professional servicing.
2. Safely Set the Time & Date
Properly setting your mechanical watch protects the movement and ensures accurate timekeeping. If you haven’t set your time and date, here’s how to do it:
- Pull the crown to the first position (usually for date adjustment).
- Set the date by turning the crown slowly in the correct direction for your watch. Avoid rushing; small incremental turns prevent gear strain.
- Pull the crown to the second position for time adjustment.
- Set the time by moving the hands forward only, stopping at the correct hour and minute. For accurate synchronization, use a reliable reference such as an atomic clock or smartphone—adjust to the nearest second.
- Push the crown back into its normal position and screw it down if your watch has a screw-down crown.
Tips for Safe Adjustment:
- Avoid changing the date between 8 PM–4 AM to prevent gear damage.
- Move hands forward only; never backward unless allowed.
- Follow manufacturer instructions for complications (day, moonphase, dual time).
- Set the time before the date to prevent gear locking.
3. Rotate Your Watch as Much as You Can
Rotating your watches means alternating which watch you wear on different days instead of wearing the same one all the time. This keeps the mainspring from staying fully wound or completely unwound, which helps maintain accuracy and even lubrication.
If a watch with a 48-hour power reserve sits unworn for more than two days, give it a manual wind of 10–20 turns before wearing.
For collectors, switch watches daily or every few days. Automatic watches stored in a watch winder should follow the movement’s 650–900 TPD (Turns per day) specification. Regular rotation keeps the balance wheel consistent, preserves accuracy, and reduces wear on critical components.
4. Always Avoid Shocks
Mechanical watches are delicate instruments. Sudden impacts can misalign the balance wheel, dislodge gears, or damage the escapement, leading to inaccurate timekeeping or costly repairs. Here are simple ways to protect your watch from shocks:
- Remove your watch during activities with high impact, such as sports, heavy lifting, or construction work.
- Store your watch in a padded case or watch box when not in use to prevent accidental drops or knocks.
- Even small impacts, like dropping it on a hard surface, can affect the movement, so handle your watch with care at all times.
5. Be Aware of Magnetism
Exposure to magnetic fields from devices like smartphones, tablets, speakers, laptops, or fridge magnets can magnetize the spring of your watch. When magnetized, the coils stick together, causing the watch to run up to several minutes fast per day or even stop intermittently.
Even a brief exposure—like placing your watch on a desk next to a laptop for a few hours—can affect precision. Watches with anti-magnetic features (e.g., Rolex Milgauss or Omega Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss) resist strong fields, but most standard movements can be affected by as little as 50–100 gauss, which everyday electronics can easily exceed.
To give you a simple visualization, here’s a scale for magnetic exposure and its effect on accuracy:
- Excellent: ±5–10 seconds per day – minimal or no magnetism, standard accuracy
- Good: ±30 seconds per day – minor magnetism, noticeable deviation
- Poor: Several minutes per day – strong magnetism, watch runs fast or slow
- Severe: Stops intermittently – extreme magnetism, immediate professional attention needed
To prevent magnetization, keep your watch 5–10 cm away from strong electronics or magnets. If it starts running fast, slow, or erratically, have it professionally demagnetized to restore accuracy.
How to Properly Clean Your Mechanical Watch Safely (DIY)
Cleaning your mechanical watch at home is simple if you follow the right steps. Doing it incorrectly can scratch the case, damage the crystal, or affect the movement. Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide:
- Prepare Your Materials
Use a soft microfiber cloth, a small soft-bristled brush like a toothbrush, lukewarm water, and a toothpick or cotton swab for small crevices. - Remove the Strap if Possible
Leather straps should be removed to prevent water damage. Metal and rubber straps can stay attached, but can be cleaned separately. - Wipe the Case and Crystal
Use a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust and fingerprints. Lightly dampen the cloth with lukewarm water to clean stubborn dirt. Avoid soaking the watch unless it is specifically water-resistant to at least 50 meters. - Clean the Crevices
Use the soft-bristled brush or a toothpick to gently remove dirt from around the crown, lugs, and bezel. Take care not to push debris into the crown or any openings. - Clean Metal Bracelets
Submerge stainless steel or titanium bracelets in lukewarm water and use the soft brush to clean between the links. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry completely with a microfiber cloth. - Clean Leather Straps
Wipe leather straps with a slightly damp cloth. Avoid soaking, and apply leather conditioner sparingly to maintain flexibility. - Dry and Reassemble
Ensure all parts are completely dry before reattaching straps or wearing. Avoid direct sunlight or heat sources, which can damage materials and lubricants.
Storing and Protecting Your Watch
Use a dedicated watch box with individual padded compartments or a soft-lined watch pouch to prevent scratches and impacts. Avoid placing your watch near electronic devices, magnets, or chemicals like perfumes and cleaning products, as these can affect both the movement and the case materials.
For long-term storage, keep the watch in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Leather straps should be stored in a ventilated area to prevent moisture buildup and warping. Metal bracelets can be loosely wrapped in a microfiber cloth to prevent scratches. If you own multiple watches, store them separately in individual slots rather than stacked together to reduce the risk of dings and scuffs.
Servicing Your Mechanical Watch
Even if your watch appears to run normally, lubricants inside the movement dry out over time, tiny components wear down, and seals can degrade, affecting water resistance and overall performance.
Every luxury model has different recommendations for servicing. For instance, the Rolex service interval is generally 8–10 years, while Omega watches are often advised to be serviced every 5–8 years, and Patek Philippe suggests a full service roughly every 3–5 years, depending on usage. Vintage watches or heavily worn pieces may require shorter intervals due to older components and increased wear.
Final Takeaways on How to Maintain a Mechanical Watch
Mechanical watches are intricate pieces of engineering that reward careful attention and respect. Beyond routine cleaning and servicing, maintaining a stable environment can significantly extend the life of both the movement and exterior materials. Small habits, like occasionally checking strap tension or ensuring clasps and buckles are secure, prevent avoidable wear and potential accidents.
Over time, these preventative measures preserve not only functionality but also the aesthetic value of your mechanical watch, keeping it a reliable and elegant companion for years to come.
