Drawn in 1977 by a 24-year-old, the 222 answered Gerald Genta without copying a single line, and earned its Jumbo nickname back when 37mm still counted as big. Anyone who buys for the wrist and not for the room will feel that immediately. Two people at dinner will notice, and both are worth knowing.

Presents itself in brand new condition with no signs of wear. Set with white gold baton markers and slim hands, the matte blue dial reads deep navy in daylight and soft ink beneath a lamp. Ringed by a notched bezel, the brushed tonneau case carries an 18k yellow gold Maltese cross at 5 o’clock, one warm spark in a cool grey field. Finished in vertical satin, the integrated bracelet runs large hexagonal links down to a triple-blade folding clasp.

Functions include hours, minutes, and date. Behind a sapphire caseback sits the in-house calibre 2455/2, a Hallmark of Geneva movement carrying forty hours of reserve, with water resistance rated to 50 meters. At 3 o’clock, a push-pull crown winds when pushed in, quick-sets the date at one click out, and sets the time at two. After a month at rest, wind about thirty turns, set the date to yesterday, then run the time forward past midnight until today and the right hour arrive together.

Comes as a complete set, double-boxed with warranty card, leather travel pouch, leather strap case, and hang tag.

Fewer than a thousand originals ever left the workshop, and for decades almost nobody noticed. Appreciation arrived late and arrived hard, which is why the revival now leaves boutiques quietly and by invitation. Collectors who already hold the obvious grails reach here next, and whoever hesitates will watch somebody else wear one.