Gérald Genta redrew the Ingenieur in 1974, and when it finally reached shops two years later, almost nobody bought it. Fewer than a thousand ever left Schaffhausen, and those few went on to become one of the most talked about designs the company has ever made. Half a century later that silhouette is back, and it belongs on someone who would rather know the story than follow the crowd.

Presents itself in mint condition with little to no signs of wear. Stamped with rows of tiny lines that cross one another at ninety degrees, the aqua dial changes character every time the light moves across it. Held down by five working screws rather than decorative ones, the round bezel pairs a softly brushed top with mirror bright sides. Built from closed links that hide their pins from view, the H link bracelet runs a polished centre line straight down the middle and catches light like a ribbon.

Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and date. Sitting at three o’clock between two protective guards, the screw down crown handles all of it. Unscrew it and it springs free. Turn it where it sits to wind by hand. Pull it out one click to quick set the date. Pull it out a second click to set the hours and minutes. Push it back in and screw it down tight to stay water resistant to ten bar. Inside, the calibre 32111 winds itself using the pawl system Albert Pellaton invented for IWC in the 1950s, and a full wind holds one hundred and twenty hours, which is five days sitting quietly in a drawer. A soft iron cage wraps around the movement and shields it from magnetic fields, and that one quiet piece of engineering is the reason this whole family exists.

Comes as a complete set, double boxed with the black leather watch pouch, warranty card, instruction booklet, bracelet guide, and bracelet pusher tool.

Rejection turns out to be a strange kind of pedigree, and very few watches wear it this well. Made for engineers, scientists, and anyone who has quietly enjoyed being underestimated, it suits the collector who buys with his eyes open rather than his ears. Slide it on once, and it has a funny way of never coming back off.