Collectors call it the “Reverse Panda,” and this example comes from the final years of the 5500V before Vacheron Constantin replaced it with the 5520V in 2024. Dressed for anything like a well cut tuxedo, it suits the collector who wants one chronograph for the boardroom, a black tie gala, and a beach bar in Saint Tropez.

Presents itself in mint condition with little to no signs of wear. Set against a deep black lacquered dial, three silver counters with fine circular grooves shine like moons on a night sky, while the markers and hands glow teal blue after dark. Ringed by a polished bezel with six notches shaped like the arms of the Maltese cross, the case trades bright shine and soft brushing every time your wrist turns. Carved into half Maltese cross links, the steel bracelet tapers down to a concealed folding clasp. Visible through the sapphire caseback, a 22K gold rotor shaped like a wind rose sweeps over an in-house caliber 5200 finished to the standard of the Hallmark of Geneva.

Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, date, and chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Sitting at three o’clock, a screw-down crown handles winding and setting, so unscrew it until it pops free and give it several turns to wind. Pull it out one click to quick set the date and two clicks to set the time, parking the hands near 6:30 before touching the date. Flanking the crown, two locking pushers release with a quarter turn, then the top pusher at two o’clock starts and stops the chronograph while the bottom pusher at four o’clock sends every chronograph hand back to zero. Lock everything back down to keep the 150 meters of water resistance, and a full wind keeps it running for about 52 hours.

Comes as a complete set, double-boxed with International Limited Warranty card, booklets, black leather strap, black rubber strap, and interchangeable steel folding clasp.

Born in 1996 and inspired by the 222 of 1977, the Overseas line has always been the travel watch of a maison that has not stopped making watches since 1755. Phileas Fogg needed eighty days to circle the globe, and a tool-free quick-release system lets this one change outfits in seconds at every stop along the way. A “Reverse Panda” this crisp rarely waits at the gate for long.